We have gathered our most frequently asked questions from our customers about our products, and shipping and returns. Please use the links below to quickly get to the topic you have questions about. You can always contact our customer service team if you did not find the question you were looking for.
SWIX’s length recommendations for ski poles can be found in this table.
The table shows your recommended length for cross-country ski poles and roller ski poles for adults and children/juniors.
The key questions are: At what level and how often do you ski?
It depends on the stiffness of the ski pole and what the pole is to be used for. Here are some examples:
Ski poles can be made of aluminum, fiberglass and carbon composite.
Aluminum withstands the most impacts, while carbon is light and stiff.
Glass fiber is a middle ground, which is not as light and stiff as carbon but can withstand more impact.
If you want a simple and durable handle, choose one with as much plastic/rubber as possible. Clean cork handles are warmer and more comfortable, but don't last as long as plastic/rubber handles. Find Swix handles here.
The strap is selected according to how easy and fast you need to get out of it. A hand strap provides better support, force and function than a single strap, but is slower and harder to pull on and off. Find Swix pole straps here.
There are four different attachment systems for Swix baskets:
The TBS system is the easiest to use. Then you can easily replace the basket by loosening it by hand. To use these ferrules, you must have a ski pole that supports the TBS system. For example: Quantum Q1 pole
To change ferrules that are glued on (e.g. Infinity Basic Alu Pole ) you must heat the ferrule with e.g. boiling water, pull it off, glue with a glue gun and press on the new ferrule while the glue is liquid/warm.
It may be a good idea to select the basket according to the tracks and conditions. For example:
Larger basket for loose trail --> Basket Triac Large
Smaller basket for firm trail --> Basket Triac XSmall
That depends on the pole. Our ski poles have different materials that can withstand different loads.
Our best pole, Triac Aero 4.0, is very light and extremely stiff. These poles can be more easily kinked than poles made of aluminum, which are not as rigid. E.g. Infinity Sonic Alu pole.
For maximum performance and best results, you need rigid poles. If this is not important, it may be better to choose poles that are not as rigid but are more robust.
Triac Aero 4.0 is our top model, while Quantum Q1 and Q2 are a less expensive alternative to racing.
Dynamic D1, D2 and D3 are good poles for hiking and training. These are heavier and softer, but in return they can withstand more and are less expensive.
Read more about Swix Triac Aero 4.0 here.
You always cut from the top, where the tube is just as thick all the way. To cut the pole, you must be able to remove the handle.
First, heat the handle with boiling water or a heat gun. Be careful not to loosen or burn any cork or rubber. We recommend that you lose any part that can become detached or burnt if you are using boiling water or a heat gun.
Pull off the handle.
Measure where to cut. Cut with a tube cutter or fine hacksaw. Mark the pole where you are going to cut with tape, for example.
Glue the top of the tube with a glue gun.
Put on the handle while the glue is hot and liquid. Remember to put it in the right direction and press it down firmly.
To glide your skis, you need a glider. There are many types from simple (F4 ), liquid glide wax (HS6 Liquid ) to more advanced glide waxes that need to be heated (HS6 ) onto the ski base.
The easiest way: F4-100C Glidewax
With waxing iron: Video - How to glide cross-country skis
Liquid glide wax (without waxing iron): How to easily get a good glide without a waxing iron
Glide wax is what you use on the ski base to make it glide better in different conditions. There are different types of glide waxes that have different areas of use.
The easiest to apply require a sponge (F4-100C Glidewax ) or spray (HS6 Liquid ) onto your ski without doing anything else. The most advanced are applied in several rounds using a waxing iron (HS6 ).
Videos: Swix school – How to prepare the skis
There are many ways to do it, but the reason is the same; you want better glide and thus a better skiing experience.
You also care for your skis in the process and they will last much longer.
Learn more here: Swix school – How to prep your skis
We recommend that you saturate new skis before use. This means that you add a glide wax to the ski base to prevent the ski from drying out. If you have white tracks in your skis, that's a sign that your skis are dry.
New skis should be saturated with a soft glide wax, e.g. PS10. Heat the glide wax into the base, wait until it has cooled down and reheat the glide wax. Follow with glide wax so that you always have wax between the waxing iron and the base.
Repeat the process until you have heated in the glide wax 6–8 times. Scrape and brush off before heating a layer of hard glide wax, e.g. HS6. Heat a few times, scrape and brush, and then apply the glide wax recommended for the day's conditions in the same way.
Videos: Swix school – How to prepare skis
You don't need any equipment other than a liquid F4 glide wax. It’s all about how much effort you want to put in and what performance you want.
If you want the best possible skis, you need different types of glide waxes, drills, fiberlene glide cleaner, different types of rotobrushes, wool and fleece, scrapers and an iron.
For example
We recommend glide waxing as often as possible. Preferably for every 100 km up to 150 km with melt-in glide wax.
One tip is to use liquid glide wax (e.g. HS6 ) after each ski session. This will protect your skis and you can easily brush off just before your next session to get the best glide possible. You will need: Fiberlene; Nylon Brush; Combi cork
Video: How to apply liquid glide wax without a waxing iron
For every 100 km up to 150 kilometers, you should heat the glide wax onto the skis to refill the base. You will need: Waxing iron; Brush; Plexi scraper; Scraper; Fiberlene
Video: How to glide cross-country skis
If the skis are dry, the skis will look a little white/gray, and then you should saturate the skis by heating in a soft glide wax, such as PS10, several times.
After this, you should apply a hard and protective glide wax, like HS6, before you lay the glide wax recommended for the day's conditions, which can be a fine spray glide wax (HS6 Liquid ) for sessions of less than 30 km.
Yes, on many types of skis, liquid glide waxes have proven to be just as effective– if not better – than solid glide waxes.
This article explains the differences between the different glide waxes in the Pro by Swix series.
If you want the type of glide wax that you apply to your skis without melting in and without applying base prep glide wax, we recommend the F4 glide wax.
If you want to go one step further, you can invest in PS10, PS6 and HS liquid 6 and HS liquid 8, as well as a waxing iron, a combi brush and a scraper to prepare your skis for training.
If you want the best possible skis, you will need a lot of equipment and many different types of glide waxes. Check out our guide: Swix school – How to prep your skis
PS is made for ski sessions and training, HS is made for training and competing and TS for racing. Find Swix glide wax here.
In this article you can read the difference between the gliders in the Pro by Swix series.
Apply Base Cleaner and Fiberlene to the grip zone. In the glide zone, apply glide wax cleaner and fiberlene so that you do not remove the glide wax, only the dirt and muck.
How to remove old glide wax
How to remove old grip wax
The powder makes it easier to melt in the glide wax. Marathon is an extremely hard glide wax that many people find difficult to heat properly into the ski base. We have therefore launched the glide wax in powder format. The glide wax is the same regardless of what you choose, but it is easier to get a good result with the powder as mentioned.
Swix Marathon glide wax is applied with Roto Wool: Get a better glide with a rotobrush
Swix Marathon Powder is applied with a waxing iron: How to apply Marathon powder
Classic skis require grip wax or klister to get a grip.
Use Griptip for the best waxing tips for your current location.
The skis also need glide waxes, both for better glide and maintenance.
Ski waxing for beginners: What you need to know
To get a good grip on your skis, the most important thing is that the ski fits your weight; this applies to both regular classic skis and skin skis.
The second most important thing is correct waxing. You can follow the temperature recommendation on the wax itself. Here you can see which temperature the wax is suitable for.
Example: Swix V40 Blue Extra
Read more here: Ski waxing - 4 easy steps to a good grip
Use Griptip for the best tips for your current location.
First, rub the grip zone with sandpaper (T11 Synthetic cork with sandpaper ), then apply a layer of base wax/base klister (VGS35C ).
To finish, apply the wax required on the top. Example: Swix V40 Blue Extra
This depends on the length of the trip, but we recommend a minimum of four thin layers that are capped between putting on the wax. Longer trips require several layers of wax.
Read more here: Ski waxing - 4 easy tips to a good grip
We recommend applying a layer regardless of whether you are waxing with grip wax or klister.
Base wax/klister, or base wax (e.g. VGS35C ) is applied after you have rubbed the ski base. This ensures that the wax adheres better to the ski.
Spray base into the grip zone or heat in a layer of base wax (e.g. VG35 ) Do not use a waxing iron, even if recommended. You can cork in the base wax instead of heating it.
V (e.g. Swix V40 Blue Extra ) is made for skiing and training, while VP (e.g. VP45 Pro ) is mainly for advanced training and competing. This means that the Swix VP grip wax can give you more performance. But our standard V grip waxes are also used in the World Cup.
Rubbing the skis means using sandpaper (T11 Synthetic cork with sandpaper ) in the area on the base where you are going to apply ski wax for the grip wax to sit better.
Read more here: Ski waxing - 4 easy steps to a good grip
This depends on what you want from your wax.
If you’re a beginner or just going out for a ski, you need a minimum of:
If you have slightly bigger demands for your wax and want a much better result, we recommend:
If you are competing and you need your wax to support your performance, we recommend:
It depends on the weather. Check the temperature range and find a wax that matches the temperature of the day. There are two temperature ranges stated on the wax: one is for fresh new snow, the other for older snow.
This GripTip table provides a good explanation of how the different snow types affect the choice of wax.
Example: Swix V40 Blue Extra
As a beginner, the classic V-series of grip waxes is enough, and the KX-series of klister.
For the advanced skier, the VP range can be a great alternative for competitions or longer trips. KN klister is designed for competitions.
The easiest and gentlest way to remove grip wax is with fiberlene and base cleaner.
You can also use a plastic scraper if you have a lot of old wax on your skis that's hard to shift.
VR has been replaced with VP. VP is a fluorine-free grip wax for racing and training.
Read more here.
Klister is the grip wax used from around zero degrees to warmer conditions, all the way up to +15°C.
Find Swix Klister here.
Read more here: Klister is this easy to use
First, put the klister in the grip zone of the ski. If the klister is hard and therefore tough to apply to the grip zone, we recommend putting it in a warm place for five minutes, e.g. on the bathroom floor.
The easiest way to do this is to use your thumb to spread the klister over the grip zone, but if you find this a bit sticky you can also use a scraper.
We’ve prepared a guide for those who want to know more about klister.
Klister is this easy to use
Video: Applying klister
Use a scraper if you don't want to use your thumb.
We also have a klister brush, which is often used by those who wax a lot of skis.
For clubs and others who wax many pairs of skis at a time, a waxing machine can be a good alternative, and this also works with glide waxes.
Video: Applying klister
If you are a beginner, we recommend Base klister on spray and quick klister.
If you are more advanced, we recommend Base klister (e.g. KX20) and middle layer klister (e.g. KX35) as well as top klister (e.g. K22).
Klister is this easy to use
Quick klister (e.g. K65C Uni ) is an option that makes it easier to put the klister on the skis than regular klister.
If you’re on the ski slopes and need to apply a layer just before you go out or need more klister during your ski trip, quick klister is ideal. Quick klister is thin and is best for short trips or trips where you have time to apply klister several times.
Regular klister comes in a tube and is easier to put on compared to Quick klister, but will in turn last longer.
Video: Applying Quick klister
Base klister (e.g. KB20C Base klister ) is what you put on first so that the klister that is laid on top and suited to the day's conditions has better grip and lasts the entire ski trip.
The spray version is easier to apply than the KX20, but doesn't last as long.
Klister is this easy to use
Video: Applying klister
Once the klister has been standing for a while, it will become hard and you can then place regular grip wax on top. This is done to avoid chafing on trips where there is a difference between damp and wet and colder and drier snow.
Use klister remover (I64N Base Cleaner) and fiberlene.
First, take the fiberlene and remove the klister. Apply it over the klister on your skis. Leave it to work for a while and then use a scraper to scrape off the klister that is stuck under the fiberlene.
This allows you to get rid of most of the klister without it becoming too sticky. Finally, polish off the residue with the fiberlene and klister remover.
If you have a waxing table and waxing iron available, you can also take the fiberlene that you put on top of the klister. Then take the hot waxing iron and drag over the fiberlene. The klister will then stick to the fiberlene. Take a scraper and scrape off the fiberlene.
Video: How to remove old klister
You can manage with base klister and then a layer of Quick or Universal klister. The best idea is to apply a layer of base klister, then a middle layer and finally grip wax, if the snow temperature permits.
To avoid poor grip and glide, you need to clean your skis. The purpose is to remove old wax before applying new wax.
Use Base Cleaner, fiberlene and preferably a scraper to clean the grip zone. Use the glide wax cleaner and the fiberlene to clean the glide zone.
The easiest and gentlest way to remove ski wax is with fiberlene and base cleaner.
You can also use a plastic scraper if you have a lot of old wax on your skis and the wax is firmly stuck on.
Use klister remover (I64N Base Cleaner) and fiberlene.
First, take the fiberlene and remove the klister. Apply it over the klister on your skis. Leave it on for a short while to take effect and then use a scraper to scrape off the klister underneath the fiberlene.
This allows you to get rid of most of the klister without it becoming too sticky. Finally, polish off the residue with the fiberlene and klister remover.
Another option if you have a waxing table and waxing iron is to place the fiberlene over the klister on the ski. Slide the waxing iron over the fiberlene. You will notice that the klister sticks to the fiberlene. Take a scraper and scrape off the fiberlene.
Video: How to remove old klister
You need Base Cleaner, Glide Wax Cleaner, fiberlene and a plastic scraper.
The easiest and gentlest way to remove grip wax is with fiberlene and base cleaner. A plastic scraper can also be used if you have a lot of old wax on your skis and it is firmly stuck on.
Video: How to remove old ski wax
Use the glide wax cleaner and fiberlene to clean the glide zone.
It is important that you do not use Base Cleaner and Glide Wax Cleaner on skin skis. This will remove the skin's adhesive. You can clean your skin skis with Swix Skin Cleaner.
You should clean your skis every time the trail changes, and whenever the wax on the skis is no longer correct for the present trail.
You will also need to clean more often if there is a lot of muck on the ski trail and/or there are skid steers that have a lot of wear on the grip wax. This is because the wax is pulled out into the glide zone.
Video: How to remove old ski wax.
Base cleaner (red box) is for cleaning the grip zone. Glide Wax cleaner (black box) is for cleaning the glide zone. When using the Glide wax cleaner, you clean away any dirt and not the glide wax cleaner. If you use Base cleaner, you clean off the glide wax and dirt. After using Base cleaner in the glide zone, you need to glide again.
Do not use Base Cleaner and Glide Wax cleaner on skin skis. This will remove the skin's adhesive. You can clean your skin skis with Swix Skin Cleaner.
No, preferably not. This will remove the glide wax and dry out the ski. If you use Base cleaner in the glide zone, you need to glide the ski again.
We recommend using Base cleaner when cleaning wax and klister from the grip zone on your skis.
Do not use Base Cleaner and Glide Wax cleaner on skin skis. This will remove the skin's adhesive. You can clean your skin skis with Swix Skin Cleaner.
No, preferably not. It is relatively expensive and will not be very effective at removing old grip wax and klister.
We recommend using Base cleaner when cleaning wax and klister from the grip zone on your skis.
Video:
You brush skis to get rid of any excess glide wax and to polish the surface. First, use a coarse brush, immediately after scraping, such as a bronze brush, then polish with a nylon brush to finish.
We have different brushes with different features. Brushes are used to freshen up the ski base, remove dirt from the glide zone and to brush away glide wax after heating.
We recommend a combi brush or bronze brush and to polish with a nylon brush to finish.
For beginners who want to glide skis, we recommend a combi brush consisting of bronze and nylon. The bronze brush is used to remove glide wax from the ski base, while the nylon brush polishes the surface.
Learn to prep skis here: Swix school – How to prep your skis
We recommend a combi brush or bronze brush and polish with a nylon brush to finish.
First, use the coarsest brush, then a finer one to get into the grooves properly. You can also use roto brushes. For roto brushes, we have good combi brushes in horsehair and steel or horsehair and nylon.
Learn to prep skis here: Swix school – How to prep your skis
You can use the same for everything. What you need is a coarse steel/bronze/horsehair brush and a fine nylon brush for final polishing.
When using it for all types of skis and snowboards, it’s a good idea to use the square hand-held brushes (e.g. the T179B Brush rectangular ) or single 100-mm wide roto brushes (e.g. the T16M Rotobrush horsehair ).
You can use a hand-held wire brush and a hand-held nylon brush for almost everything. If you want to use a roto brush, you must use a drill that holds approx. 1500RPM and use a 100-mm brush in horsehair and nylon.
Learn to prep skis here: Swix school – How to prep your skis
It depends on your desired result, how much time you want to spend and your budget. You will get better results by using different brushes. If you're planning to prep multiple pairs of skis, it’s worth investing in a roto brush. Here are our recommendations:
Training: Handheld Steel/Bronze Brush and Nylon Brush
Competing:
Learn to prep skis here: Swix school – How to prepare skis
Roto wool is an innovation in waxing, allowing you to get top glide without using a hot waxing iron. Roto wool is often used as a topping on skis to get a thin film with glide wax that glides well.
You will need:
Here you can see a video on how we recommend using roto wool: Get a better glide with a roto brush
Roto brushes are attached to a drill that has a speed of approximately 1500 revolutions per minute. Make sure you don't apply too much pressure, but let the brush do the work. Brush away from you, preferably in the gliding direction. First use a coarse horsehair brush and then a fine nylon brush to polish.
You will need:
Video: How to use a roto brush
Roto Fleece is used to apply our new TS liquid glide waxes. It can also be used to apply our other liquid products (e.g. HS6 Liquid ).
Roto cork (T18C Roto brush cork ) is used for heating glide wax and liquid products, but for best results with liquid products we recommend Roto Fleece.
Roto wool is mostly used for Marathon, but can also be used on other hard gliders.
Designed specifically for longer distances on fresher and clean snow.
Marathon Black is specially designed for wet conditions and dirty snow.
You will need:
Here you can see a video on how we recommend using roto wool: Get a better glide with Roto Brush
Roto Cover Suction will reduce dust in your waxing booth.
We recommend using a vacuum cleaner that is easy to wash out. Do not use your normal vacuum cleaner. When you prepare skis and use brushes, there will be a very fine dust that can quickly ruin an ordinary vacuum cleaner. A normal vacuum cleaner will then get the filter full of glider dust and will potentially be destroyed.
Now you can also buy a flexi hose and attach it to the roto cover with suction and suction on the waxing iron. You may also want to angle the roto cover.
Quite simply, this means sanding the base of the ski and putting a structure on it. The structure is the pattern in the sole. This is very important for how well the skis glide on different types of conditions.
A coarse structure is suitable for wet conditions and a fine structure is for cold conditions.
There are many different structures, but to make it easy:
The goal with the right structure is to drain the water from the snow so that the ski glides optimally.
Read more here: Comprehensive guide to manually structuring your skis
A structure tool allows you to adapt the structure of your ski to the day's conditions.
Adding a manual structure can in many cases give the glider a giant boost. The manual structure is set by a separate filing tool (e.g. T0424S Structure Kit ), which you can buy from us.
The skis must have been glided and polished before you add the manual structure. This is widely used in competitions at the highest level. Usually, you just characterize the ski with a structure you can remove by heating the glide wax, but we have a tool that permanently sets the structure. The T401U Structure tool is a good tool for wet conditions, but remember to sand the skis again to remove it.
All of our structure tools can be found here.
Read more here: Comprehensive guide to manually structuring your skis
It is really important for the ski to glide well on the chosen trail and to optimize the structure for the day’s conditions. It is also necessary to get the best glide and performance.
For example, you need:
Video: Swix Racing Filing
Read more here: Comprehensive guide to manually structuring your skis
Before the skis are filed, they must be prepared. That is, waxed, scraped and brushed. Pull the filing iron 1–3 pulls from the tip to the rear with increased pressure on the iron from the binding towards the back of the base. The pressure on the iron should be increased in wetter and damper snow.
For example, you need:
Video: Swix Racing Filing
Read more here: Comprehensive guide to manually structuring your skis
A rule of thumb is the wetter the snow, the coarser the texture.
A broken V structure (e.g. 0.5-mm V structure) is a fine structure on colder trails for classic and skating styles, while a 1-mm straight file is a good choice on the rear part of classic skis, especially at -5 degrees and warmer.
Our Filling Table gives you a simple overview of what to choose for different snow types and temperatures. Find the filing table here: Comprehensive guide to manually structuring your skis
T423 gives a good result and has easily replaceable rollers where it is possible to buy different types of rollers with different structures. This one is made of plastic and will not withstand professional use.
T0410 WC is our latest tool. It is made of metal, is robust and withstands a lot of punishment. It is the first tool that allows you to set the pressure you want on your skis to give you the perfect groove. It is made in Norway.
For example, you need:
Read more here: Comprehensive guide to manually structuring your skis
Yes, if you use a filing tool, where you roll over and emboss (for example, T0424S Three-roll structure tool ) and do not cut (for example, the T401U Structure tool ) into the structure. You need to glide the skis every time you change structure.
Read more here: Comprehensive guide to manually structuring your skis
A 1-mm straight works well on the back of the skis on almost all types of snowy trails, especially on classic skis. Apply more pressure the wetter the snow.
If it is very wet, it may be useful to use 2mm. A 0.5-mm broken V is great for skating and classic skiing in below zero temperatures.
For beginners, these tools cover most trails:
Read more here: Comprehensive guide to manually structuring your skis
The short answer is when it is very wet or very cold.
In cold conditions, you want to create a water film between the snow and the ski. Then you can use a fairly fine broken V structure, while on wet conditions you want to drain. For wet conditions, use a coarse texture.
Read more here: Comprehensive guide to manually structuring your skis
Edge grinding is when you sharpen and put an angle on the edge of a ski. Naturally, this requires the ski to have a steel edge.
You can grind the edge to set an angle, where 88 degrees is most common for recreational skiers, while 87 degrees and lower are common for competitive skiers. On the edge of the base, it is common to have 1 degree if you want a ski that 'floats’ and does not 'cut' into the snow. Racing skiers often use 0.5 degrees on the edge of the base.
You grind the edges to get different degrees of how easily the steel edge can grip the snow or how sharp it is. You use angle bars and files to grind the side edges.
When you have a high angle (1 degree) on the base edge and a high angle on the side edge (89 degrees), the ski will float on the snow and not grip easily. It will then skid and not cut a grip when you are edging the ski.
On a racing ski you often want it to be more responsive and to grip, so then you have a lower angle on the base and side edge (0.5 and 87 degrees for example).
Beginner: A pack with easy grinding equipment, such as the Compact Edger Kit.
Video: Simple edge treatment
Experts:
The side edges should be gone over every time you use the skis. If no soreness or rust has occurred after use, there is nothing you need to do.
Make sure that the skis are dry and stored in a room that is dry and clean to maintain the edges.
Often it will be enough to sand the side edge to keep it sharp, but if it dents or rusts, it should be ground down regardless of whether it is a base or side edge.
The clue is in the names; the base edge is the side of the steel edge that’s on the underside of the ski, while the side edge is the one that’s on the side of the ski.
On a regular ski, the side edge is 88 degrees and the base edge is ideally 1 degree.
When you have a high angle (1 degree) on the base edge and a high angle on the side edge (89 degrees), the ski will float on the snow and not grip easily. It will then skid and not cut a grip when you are edging the ski.
When racing, these are usually 87/0.5 degrees respectively. On a racing ski you often want it to be more responsive and grip, and then you have a lower angle on the base and side edge (e.g. 0.5 and 87 degrees).
Rubber grindstones can be used to round the edges if they are too sharp or to remove cracks or rust. If you buy the T240, you have both a fine and coarse grindstone in one.
Beginner: A simple grind kit, such as the Compact edger kit.
Experts:
We have several types of waxing tables. Which one suits you depends on the application.
This is because downhill skis/snowboards, weigh more than cross-country skis and you need to have clamps that fit. We recommend a waxing table that is wide and heavy, such as T76.
For cross-country skis you can use most Swix waxing tables (e.g. T75W ) and adapt with the correct profiles (e.g. T0766 XC ).
If you are a beginner, it depends on whether you are going to use it for cross-country skis or downhill skis/snowboards. You also need to consider whether you need to be able to carry it around a lot. The T75W waxing table goes a long way.
If you are an expert, our best waxing table is the T77-3. The top plate is made of aluminum, so it can withstand a lot of wind and rain. This allows you to use it for a long time indoors and outdoors. The T77-3 is also relatively light, yet stable. The waxing table can also be height-adjusted.
You can find all waxing tables here: Swix waxing tables
A waxing profile is used for cross-country skis and is a profile to which the skis are attached, so that they remain stable when waxing the skis.
There are waxing profiles you can have on your own legs (for example T767-3 XC Profile and T79-1 Legs ) or profiles that are attached to the waxing table or a bench with clamps, like T767-3, and finally profiles that are pushed into our waxing tables, like T0766.
All Swix waxing profiles fit cross-country skis. We have no downhill ski and snowboard profiles. Here it is best to use clamps.
You can find all the clamps here: Swix clamps
A waxing profile is used for cross-country skis and is a profile to which the ski is attached, so that the ski remains stable when waxing the skis.
There are stand-alone waxing profiles (e.g. the T767-3 XC Profile and T79-1 Legs ) or waxing profiles you attach to waxing tables or benches with clamps, like T767-3, and waxing profiles that are pushed into our waxing tables, like T0766.
We recommend using a waxing table. It’s more convenient and you have space to put tools and waxing irons on the table while you’re working.
Clamps are used to attach the skis and snowboards to the table/bench to keep them stable while waxing.
See an example in this video: Simple edge treatment
Find all Swix clamps here
You attach the clamps (e.g. T149-50 ) to the table or bench so that you have two outer points that support the ski or board at each end. You also have an attachment point in the middle.
Clamps for:
You can use Pro Snowboard Vise, or T149-50 with adapter.
No, our clamps can easily be used on any table or bench, as long as there is room on the edge of the table (maximum 6 cm thick) to secure the clamp.
No, but some ski waxes require the use of a waxing iron.
To melt in the hard glide wax and base mount, you need a waxing iron. A good waxing iron will keep the temperature even as you guide it over the ski. Use a good waxing iron for glide waxes and a lower priced variant for base grips. If you use the same waxing iron for both the glide wax and the base grip, make sure that it is cleaned well between each use.
Ski waxing the easy way: F4-100C Glidewax
Waxing skis with a waxing iron: Video - How to glide wax cross-country skis
You will need:
This depends on how often and how many skis/snowboards you need to prep. Another important factor is how good you want the result to be and what your budget is.
Higher quality waxing irons are thicker and retain the temperature better, resulting in a better result. Here are some examples to help you find the right one.
Beginner: T73
Expert cross-country skiing: T70
Expert downhill: T71A
This depends on how often and how many skis/snowboards you need to prep. Another important factor is how good you want the result to be and what your budget is.
Higher quality waxing irons are thicker and retain the temperature better, resulting in a better result. Here are some examples to help you find the right one.
Beginner: T73
Expert cross-country skiing: T70
Expert downhill: T71A
Videos: Swix school – How to prep your skis
Press and hold one of the buttons that adjusts the temperature while the iron is plugged into a mains socket.
Video: How to use the Swix wax machine
Glider or klister, tape and the machine itself. It may be handy to have sandpaper if you are going to apply klister and use a scraper, a middle edge scraper and brushes if you are going to apply glide wax.
A clean waxing iron will give a good result.
There are probably many culprits out there who have a dirty and scratched waxing iron. A waxing iron is the most important tool you have. If it is not scratch-free and in tip-top condition, it can lead to poor results or, in the worst case, damage to the ski base.
Wipe the waxing iron with Base Cleaner and fiberlene while it is hot.
Wipe the waxing iron with Base Cleaner and fiberlene while it is hot.
We recommend using a waxing mask to protect your health when waxing skis. It will keep you safe while you prep your skis, and should be a must in all waxing booths.
The waxing mask protects you from fine dust and other particles emitted from ski waxes. This is especially true if you are working with heat and melting in the glide wax or liquid products. Then we always recommend using a waxing mask.
Beginner: T42 Economy Mask. Replaceable filters
Advanced: T43 Racing mask with replaceable filter
Expert: T41 Pro Mask w/fan
The waxing booth should have a fan that sucks air out and an entrance where fresh air comes in. This provides proper circulation in the room.
Gloves (R196 Tuning glove ) we always recommend. This avoids getting wax on your hands. A waxing apron is not necessary, but may be worth it if you don't want to get ski wax on your clothes.
We recommend it. If you use roto brushes, we recommend roto cover with suction, which you can connect to a vacuum cleaner. (such as T15-100 ). We also recommend using a vacuum cleaner on the waxing iron.
We recommend changing the filter once a year. If you wax a lot of skis for clubs or similar, you should change the filter twice a year.
Yes, we have roto handles with the option to attach the vacuum cleaner (Roto Cover w/Suction, 100 mm and Roto Cover w/Suction, 140 mm ).
Video: How to use a roto brush
Yes, we have a frame that can be fitted to the T70 waxing iron with the option of connecting the vacuum cleaner. T70-FR2 Suction frame for T70 iron
To protect your health, it is always best to use a waxing mask. The waxing mask ensures safe ski prepping, and in our opinion is a must-have in all waxing booths.
Beginner: T42 Economy Mask. Replaceable filters
Advanced: T43 Racing mask with replaceable filter
Expert: T41 Pro Mask w/fan
You should use roto brushes with roto handles with extractor (Roto Cover w/Suction, 100 mm ), have a T70 waxing iron with extractor (T70-FR2 Suction frame for T70 iron ) and use a waxing mask. You should also have window or door open to let in fresh air.
Skin skis are wax-free cross-country skis. The waxing zone contains small hairs, like real skin, which provide grip. Even if you don't need to wax your skis with grip wax, for example, we recommend that you add products to the skins for the optimum experience and so that your skin skis last as long as possible.
To maintain the skin, we recommend cleaning, impregnation and boosting for optimal skiing. The glide zone must also be maintained with glide wax, like regular cross-country skis.
Skin skis should not be waxed like regular classic skis, but you must clean the skin with a separate cleaner (Skin Cleaner), impregnate it (Skin Impregnation) and preferably use a boost (Skin Boost) between each ski trip if you want optimum grip and glide.
Watch our video guide here.
It is very important that you do not use ordinary ski cleaners, which are used for waxing, when cleaning skin. Using commercially available ski cleaners will remove the adhesive from the skin.
You should also regularly glide wax the ski with a simple glide wax (N19 Glide Wax) to maintain the glide or use more advanced methods to achieve better glide.
Check out our easy-glide video guide here.
To clean skin skis, use a special cleaner (Skin Cleaner). You spray the cleaner onto the fiberlene and rub the skin until it is clean. Do not use ordinary ski cleaners, as they will remove the adhesive from the skin.
Watch our video guide here.
To impregnate skin skis, you can use our new Skin Impregnation. It is very easy to apply to a clean, dry skin. First shake the bottle, unscrew the cap and gently squeeze the sponge on the skin, then drag it over the skin.
Check out our easy-glide video guide here.
Three steps to get more out of your skin skis
We recommend that the skin is impregnated before use and cleaned after use. Use suitable products designed for skin skis: Skin Boost, Skin Impregnation and Skin Cleaner.
The glide zone on the skin skis must be saturated and prepared like all other skis. On saturated skis, you can use a liquid glide wax if you want easy maintenance of the glide.
Check out our easy-glide video guide here.
If you don't already have anything and want a simple package to maintain your skin skis, the Swix P15N contains all you need. We also recommend Skin impregnation.
Check out our easy-glide video guide here.
Three steps to get more out of your skin skis
To get a better grip on a skin ski, we recommend moving the binding slightly forward. It is also important that the skin is clean and remains dry.
By cleaning the skin with Skin Cleaner, impregnating the skin to avoid icing with Skin Impregnation and Skin Boost, the skin will flex more easily when you slide forward and the hairs on the skin will grip the snow better when you kick off.
Check out our easy-glide video guide here.
Three steps to get more out of your skin skis.
The glide zone of a skin ski is treated the same as the glide zone of all cross-country skis.
You should glide your skis regularly with a simple glide wax (N19 Glide Wax) to maintain the glide or use more advanced methods if you want to achieve a better glide.
Learn more here: Swix School – How to prep your skis.
In order to avoid slippery skin skis, we recommend moving the binding slightly forward. It is also important that the skin is clean and remains dry.
By cleaning the skin with Skin Cleaner, impregnating the skin to avoid icing with Skin Impregnation and Skin Boost, the skin will flex more easily when you slide forward and the hairs on the skin will grip the snow better when you kick off.
Check out our easy-glide video guide here.
Three steps to get more out of your skin skis
Skin skis are best used when the ski trails are firm, preferably around 0 degrees. If the ski trails become too loose, you may experience poorer grip. The reason for this is because the hairs on the skin do not stick well enough to the snow as you kick off, because the snow is too loose.
Learn more here: Three steps to get more out of your skin skis
Before starting your workout:
After the session:
Read more here about roller ski maintenance
The roller ski wheels are fitted with bolts that you can loosen.
Roller ski wheels wear out gradually as you use them. It is mainly the braking that wears the wheels.
To change wheels, loosen the bolt holding the wheel together with the roller ski.
Fit a new wheel and reattach the bolt. Remember to tighten properly – and to preferably re-tighten after a couple of sessions. You can find roller ski wheels on our website here.
Read more here about Roller ski maintenance
We have created a guide to help you with the classic and skating technique on roller skis. Swix has roller skis for both the classic and skating technique. Swix Roadline Classic is our classic roller ski. Swix Triac Carbon Skate is our best roller ski for skating.
How to do the classic technique on roller skis
How to skate on roller skis
We have written some tips and made a small film showing how to brake on roller skis. When you brake on roller skis, whether classically or skating, you press the roller skis out to the side with the rear part of the roller ski slightly further out than the front part, a bit like plowing on normal skis.
Braking on roller skis – How to do it
There is no rule to say how long roller skis should be, but generally a short roller ski is easy to maneuver, while a longer roller ski will be more directionally stable. This is why roller skis (Swix Triac Carbon Skate ) are shorter than roller skis classic (Swix Roadline Classic ).
Read more here.
You can use regular ski poles for roller skis, but we have our own roller ski poles that are slightly reinforced in the bottom part.
Roller ski poles are based on the same technology used in cross-country ski poles, but are designed to withstand more punishment and impact. Also, roller ski poles soften every stroke you make on the asphalt. Roller ski poles are therefore gentler and take better care of your body.
Browse our selection of roller ski poles.
Fpr skating, we have carbon roller skis (Swix Triac Carbon Skate ) for the keenest skaters, and an aluminum roller ski (Swix Roadline Skate ) for those who train actively and one for juniors.
In classic style, we only have an aluminum roller ski (Swix Roadline Classic ) suitable for all adults.
Read more here: Which roller skis are right for you?
You can find our tips for new roller skiers here:
Roller skiing for beginners
Yes, but it is not recommended because it can be exposed to stone chips, asphalt, road verges, etc. There are special roller ski poles poles designed to withstand these kinds of impact. Here you can find Swix roller ski poles.
If you want to use one of our cross-country ski poles, you need a special ferrule that can withstand being used on asphalt. TBS ferrules or glued ferrules.
Assembly instructions are included in the package. All our skis have pre-drilled and glued holes. You can use Salomon Prolink or Rottefella Roller binding and screw them directly onto the pre-drilled holes. Tighten well and check that the binding is completely down on the ski.
Assembly instructions are included in the package. All our skis have pre-drilled and glued holes, so you can use Salomon Prolink or Rottefella Roller binding and screw them directly onto the pre-drilled holes. Tighten well and check that the binding is completely down on the ski.
Yes, but you must have your own spike that can withstand being used on asphalt. TBS ferrules or glued ferrules.
We have our own series of roller ski poles called Roadline 1, Roadline 2 and Roadline 3. These are adapted for roller skiing with roller skiing ferrules and are reinforced at the bottom of the ski pole as you can quickly break the pole if you hit something.
Our length recommendations for roller ski poles can be found in this table.
The table shows your recommended length for roller ski poles for adults and children/juniors.
A strap that fits your hand is important. Follow our recommendation in this table.
The strap is selected according to how easy and fast you need to get out of it. A strap shaped to the hand, such as the Strap Triac 3.0, provides better support, power and function than a simpler strap, such as the Strap Pro Fit TCS, but is slower and slightly more difficult to put on and take off.
The most important thing is to have a handle that is robust and comfortable. Find all Swix handles here.
Read more here: How to find the right straps and handles.
Swix roller ski poles are called Roadline. These poles become stiffer and lighter from 3 to 1, where 3 is the softest and heaviest and 1 is the stiffest and lightest. Which one to choose depends on your level.
Yes, you must use special ferrules suitable for roller skiing. These can withstand being used on asphalt.
Swix’s roller ski ferrules come in two versions and you have to choose a ferrule according to your pole’s attachment method. You can choose between a ferrule you screw on the pole or a ferrule that is fixed with glue.
TBS ferrule or glued ferrule.
Swix has both roller ski ferrules that are screwed on by hand and ones that need to be glued on.
TBS ferrules are screwed on by hand. The TBS system is the easiest to use. This is perfect if you break the ferrule while you’re out and about. To use these ferrules, you must have a ski pole that supports the TBS system.
The alternative is a roller ski pole attached to the pole with glue called Ferrule roller 2011, 10 mm. To replace a ferrule attached with glue, heat the ferrule with a heat gun or boiling water. Pull off the ferrule you are going to replace after the glue has heated up. Then, take a glue gun and glue to the tip of the pole and attach the new ferrule when the glue is hot. Leave the pole in place until the glue has hardened.
After use, you will find that the roller ski ferrule starts to slow. When this happens, it's time to sharpen the ferrule with a diamond grindstone. Use this to sand along the edge of the ferrule to sharpen it again. Swix sells several diamond sanders, such as theTA200E Diam 100 mm.
You can use all poles to run with, but it is important that you fit them with ferrules that can withstand gravel/asphalt. Although you can technically run with all poles, we have some that are particularly suited to it, and can be found in the hiking and trekking category.
We split summer hiking and running poles into three categories.
Yes, we are happy to repair your product if possible. We want the products you buy from us to last a long time, and we encourage long-term use.
Our sewing department in Oslo (Flagship Store in Snøbyen, Lørenskog) can repair many different types of damage. For example, on clothing, we can repair rips and broken zips. We can also help with spare parts.
Read more here.
If you want to have your Swix product repaired, you can fill in the contact form and attach pictures of the damage.
We will contact you as soon as possible after receiving your request. You can find the contact form, price list and information about our Service Center on this page.
You can find information about our sewing department and prices on this repair page.
To make a complaint about your products, follow the instructions on this page.
If there is a defect and/or fault in the product, you as a customer have the right to complain for 2 years from receiving the product. If you wish to submit a complaint, we require pictures and a description of what is wrong. After submitting your request, we will respond as soon as possible.
You can find more information here: Terms and Conditions of Sale.
Our aim is to deliver the products as quickly as possible, from 1–4 days, depending on where you live.
We currently offer delivery to addresses in Norway, Sweden and all countries in Euro currency. Unfortunately, we do not deliver to Svalbard.
Read more here.
In Norway and Sweden, shipping costs NOK 79. If you spend in excess of SEK 1,000, we pay the shipping.
Here is the latest information about delivery and returns.
We deliver to Norway, Sweden and all countries with a Euro currency. Shipping costs 79 kr to Sweden and Norway. Unfortunately, we do not deliver to Svalbard.
Read more about Delivery and Returns.
When you order an item from us, we will notify you by e-mail when your order leaves our warehouse.
This e-mail contains, among other things, a track and trace number so that you can follow the item from its dispatch until it is ready for collection at the collection point.
If you register your phone number when placing an order, you will also receive a track and trace number via text, so that you can check the status of the shipment at any time.
You will be sent a collection code when the item has arrived. Bring this to the collection point when you need to collect the item.
Read more here.
When you order with us, you will receive a confirmation by e-mail when the item(s) leaves our warehouse. In this e-mail you will find your track and trace number.
If you haven't received the e-mail, please feel free to check your spam filter.
Please contact us if you need help.
If you want to exchange your item, you need to return it and place a new order in the online store for the item you want.
Read more here.
Please contact us if you have received the wrong product from us.
On weekdays, you can expect a response to your request within 24 hours.
Please contact us if you have received the wrong product from us. Also send pictures of the product and the damages.
On weekdays, you can expect a response to your request within 24 hours.
Yes, you have. Pursuant to the Cancelation Act, the withdrawal period applies from the day you receive the item and 14 days forward. We’ve extended the right to return your order to within 30 days.
Follow the instructions here.
Returns to us are free of charge.
However, the shipping costs you paid at the time of purchase will not be refunded if your order is below the free shipping limit, which is 1000 kr.
Read more here.
Once we have received and registered your return, you will receive your refund within 7–12 working days.
If you have chosen an invoice, remember to postpone payment in the Klarna App or on their website so that you do not get a reminder fee.
Please contact us if you have received the wrong product from us. Please send us your order number and contact information.
On weekdays, you can expect a response to your request within 24 hours.
Unfortunately, we cannot cancel or change orders because the order information spreads quickly to many different internal systems. We pick and pack continuously.
Please use the option of return. This is the easiest and fastest solution.
Here you can find more information about returns.
Unfortunately, we cannot cancel or change orders because the order information spreads quickly to many different internal systems. We pick and pack continuously.
Please use the option of return. This is the easiest and fastest solution.
Here you can find more information about returns.
If you would like to change the delivery address on your order, please contact us.
If you can't find the answer under “Frequently Asked Questions”, we are happy to help you through our Live Chat, with a response time of less than 2 minutes. If we are not on chat, please fill out our Contact Us form.
Contact us form can be completed at any time. On weekdays, you can expect a response to your request within 24 hours. Answers will be sent via the e-mail address provided by you. In case you do not receive a reply, please check your spam filter before contacting us.
Our Live Chat is open:
Monday: 12–22.00
Tuesday: 08–22.00
Wednesday: 08–22
Thursday: 10–22.00
Friday: 08–14.00
Saturday: Closed.
Sunday: 16–22.00
We are a small but hardworking team and do our utmost to keep you as happy as possible. We also need to stretch our legs a little and get some fresh air from time to time.